How Many Watts Does Each Appliance Use?
A reference table of typical running wattage for common household appliances, the input number every energy and cost calculator on this site needs.
Common conversions
| Input | Result |
|---|---|
| LED light bulb | 8-12 W |
| TV, LED, 40-65 in | 60-150 W |
| Desktop computer | 200-500 W |
| Refrigerator (full-size, running) | 100-400 W |
| Chest or upright freezer | 100-350 W |
| Microwave oven | 600-1,200 W |
| Electric kettle | 1,000-1,500 W |
| Hair dryer | 800-1,800 W |
| Washing machine | 400-1,300 W |
| Electric clothes dryer | 2,000-6,000 W |
| Dishwasher (with heated dry) | 1,200-1,800 W |
| Electric oven or range | 2,000-5,000 W |
| Electric water heater (tank) | 3,000-4,500 W |
| Window or portable AC unit | 500-1,500 W |
| Central air conditioner (3-ton) | 3,000-3,500 W |
The math behind it
- kWh/day = 3,000 × 6 / 1000 = 18
- kWh/month = 18 × 30 = 540
- Cost = 540 × 0.16
Everything you need to know
Every calculator on this site that estimates energy use or cost starts with the same missing number: how many watts the appliance actually draws. This page is a lookup table for that number, built from typical manufacturer specs, so you can grab a wattage figure here and plug it straight into the kWh, cost, or load calculators elsewhere on the site.
Nameplate wattage vs. typical running wattage
The wattage printed on an appliance's nameplate, or calculated from its volts x amps rating, is usually a maximum, not a constant draw. This matters most for anything with a compressor or a heating element that cycles on and off. A refrigerator's plate might read close to 700 W, but because the compressor runs only part of the time, its average draw over a full day is closer to 100-150 W, which is the figure worth using in a cost or consumption calculation. The ranges in the table above reflect typical running wattage for each appliance category, not the single highest number that could appear on a nameplate.
Startup surge: why running wattage isn't the whole story
Motors and compressors draw far more than their running wattage for a fraction of a second when they start, an effect called inrush or locked-rotor current. A central air conditioner that runs at 3,200 W can momentarily spike to 7,000-9,000 W the instant its compressor kicks on. This surge does not affect a monthly cost estimate, since it lasts under a second, but it matters a great deal when sizing a backup generator or checking whether several appliances can start on the same circuit without tripping a breaker. Generator sizing guides list a separate "starting watts" figure for exactly this reason.
Using this table with the rest of the site's calculators
Once you have a wattage figure, hand it to a purpose-built calculator: use the kWh cost or power usage cost pages to price a single device, the electricity bill calculator to estimate a full monthly statement, the energy consumption calculator to see kWh used over a day, month, or year, or the home electrical load calculator to check a circuit's or panel's total capacity. This page's job is only to supply the input number; the math happens on those other pages.
Common applications
Grab a wattage figure here, then use it as the input for the kWh cost, power usage cost, electricity bill, or energy consumption calculators to get an actual dollar or kWh estimate.
Add up the running wattage of every circuit you want powered, then check that the generator's starting-watts rating covers the largest single motor or compressor's surge on top of that.
Compare each appliance's wattage against a portable power station's continuous and surge ratings before relying on it to run a microwave, mini-fridge, or space heater off-grid.
Add the running wattage of everything on one outlet or cord and compare it against the circuit's amp rating (amps x volts) to avoid overloading a breaker.
Common mistakes
A refrigerator's plate may read 700 W, but the compressor cycles on and off, so the true daily average is closer to 100-150 W. Using the plate figure in a cost calculator overstates the result by several times.
A 3,200 W air conditioner can spike to 7,000-9,000 W for under a second at startup. A generator sized only to the running wattage can stall or shut down when the compressor kicks on.
Motors and other inductive loads have a power factor below 1.0, so multiplying the nameplate voltage by its amp rating overstates real power draw, sometimes by 15% or more.
Wattage varies by capacity and efficiency. High-draw appliances like water heaters and dryers range from 3,000 to 5,500 W between models, so check the specific nameplate before a precise calculation.
Frequently asked questions
How many watts does a refrigerator use?+
100 to 400 W while the compressor is actively running, but because it cycles on and off, the average draw over a full day is usually closer to 100-150 W.
How many watts does a microwave use?+
600 to 1,200 W for most countertop models, with larger or commercial units running higher. Check the wattage printed inside the door for the exact figure.
How many watts does a central air conditioner use?+
About 3,000 to 3,500 W for a typical 3-ton residential unit while running, with a brief startup surge that can reach 7,000-9,000 W.
How many watts does an electric water heater use?+
3,000 to 4,500 W for a standard tank-style heating element, though only one element usually runs at a time even on dual-element tanks.
How many watts does a hair dryer use?+
800 to 1,800 W depending on the model and heat setting, with travel dryers at the low end and professional salon dryers at the high end.
How many watts does a TV use?+
60 to 150 W for a modern 40 to 65 inch LED or OLED set, well below the 200-plus watts older plasma or CRT televisions of the same size used to draw.
Is the wattage on the nameplate the same as what the appliance actually draws?+
No, the nameplate typically lists a maximum rating. Cycling appliances like refrigerators and air conditioners draw that figure only while actively running, not continuously.
Do I need to account for startup surge when sizing a generator?+
Yes, motor and compressor-driven appliances can briefly draw 2 to 3 times their running wattage at startup, and a generator sized only for running watts can stall or trip when that appliance kicks on.
How can I find the exact wattage of my specific appliance?+
Check the nameplate or manual first, or measure it directly with a plug-in power meter, which is the most accurate method for appliances with variable or cycling loads.
Why do wattage ranges vary so much for the same type of appliance?+
Capacity, age, and efficiency rating all shift the number. A compact dorm fridge and a large side-by-side model both count as refrigerators but can differ by 300 W or more.